Best of Bellagio
It’s a pleasure to slip into the torpor of an Italian summer afternoon. Let the crickets carry the conversation for a while. There’s shade to be sought, a nap perhaps. Best Bellagio napping: Hotel Belvedere, on the hill above town, family-run since the 19th century.
Pasticceria Bar Sport, since 1919, has the best gelato in town. Introduce yourself to Emilio, who was born upstairs and who took over the business when his parents retired. He’ll proudly give you a postcard with a photo from the 1920s, showing his mum and dad on the steps of Bar Sport, watching a car rally.
Best pasta is the special of the day: homemade tagliolini served with butter, Parmesan and shaved white truffle at Alle Darsene Di Loppia, a gorgeous waterside trattoria about 10 mins walk from town, through the gardens of Villa Melzi. A very close second is the spaghetti vongole served on Hotel Belvedere terrace. The view over Lake Como is pretty special, too.
Villa Melzi takes the trophy for best villa in the neighborhood. Only the gardens are open to the public, but they’re definitely worth a visit. Expansive, waterfront and lots of cool deep shade. Perfect for a morning stroll or late afternoon explore.
Bellagio doesn’t do beaches as we know them. It’s all pebbles and rocks underfoot. But that shouldn’t stop you from taking a plunge in Lake Como. The water’s fine. It helps, though, if you have a pair of thongs for the launch.
Best liminal experience: two beers, a panini, and a busker playing blues mid-afternoon in a sleepy piazza.
Bellagio is all this and more. It’s not too busy, largely traffic-free, charming and relaxed. It’s a very beautiful destination in its own right, and a central base for day visits by ferry to other towns on Lake Como.
