from Bergamo, Italy

Bergamo’s town square, Piazza Vecchia, is buzzing. A cohort of students graduated this morning and they’ve come to the piazza, wearing garlands of bay leaves, to continue the celebrations.

They pose for photos with family and friends, drink Prosecco, and laugh with great pride and joy.

Church bells ring, as if on cue. And this being Italy, there’s not one church in the neighborhood but several. 

The bells of Bergamo’s Cathedral are loud and clear. Next to the cathedral is the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore, which plays its own tune. Just down the road is Chiesa Di S. Agata. It chimes-in with another set of brass.

The combined effect is magic.

Church bells punctuated our childhood, ringing every day on the hour from 6am to to 6pm. But the sound has largely faded from Australian life, save for weddings and other special occasions. 

Here in Bergamo it’s as if every hour is special, which is easy to say when you’re on holidays and have no obligations.

But it’s not hard to imagine the bells of this old walled city have rung throughout the centuries in celebration, while reminding citizens of their hours on this earth.

‘Make it worthwhile,’ they say. 

Or, to paraphrase Mel Brooks*, perhaps they’re saying, ‘When you’ve got a bell, ring it.’ 

*nicked from an obituary in The New York Times for choreographer Alan Johnson, who worked with Mel Brooks on Springtime for Hitler: A Gay Romp With Adolf and Eva at Berchtesgaden. As Brooks recalls, Johnson was initially worried about Springtime.  “Alan said, ‘Oh my God, are we allowed to show this?’ I said, ‘Look, my favourite expression is, When you go up to the bell, ring it, or don’t go up to the bell.’ I said: ‘We’ve gone too far. We have to ring the bell.’”

 CASE NOTES   

Where to stay: Bergamo has walked “Alta Citta” or old city, which sits on a hilltop and overlooks the new city that spreads out on the plains below. Stay in the Alta Citta. It’s atmospheric, largely car free, and definitely where you’d want to spend most of your time. Accommodation options include hotels, self-catering apartments and small pensione. Highly recommend the Relais San Lorenzo.

What to do: Wander through the Alta Citta, visit the Piazza Vechhia and Basilica S. Maggiore. 

Walk along the UNESCO-listed walls that enclose the Alta Citta. The Venetians built them in the 1400s. They’re remarkable.

Ride the funicular to the highest point above the Alta Citta for wonderful views across Lombardy.

Enjoy an aperitivo at Cafe Del Tasso, on Piazza Vecchia. It’s been serving food and wine since 1476.